Ephemera - Part 2
Paper Embellishments
Paper
embellishing paper is not as boring as it sounds. We aren’t simply talking about adding another
layer of paper to your piece but manipulating paper into something more
dimensional and creative and adding the resulting decorative item to your work
in progress.
One simple
form of paper embellishment can be the use of paper die cuts. These can be
purchased pre-punched and coloured, homemade from purchased metal dies, or purchased hand punches, and designed and
cut using innovative technology such as electronic cutting machines. In fact, the term “die cut” has been expanded
to cover most extras that are pre-cut from cardstock or paper included tags,
dimensional stickers and chipboard elements.
Manipulating
Paper
Paper can
also be manipulated to make embellishments.
As mentioned in an earlier class, weaving paper can be done on a large
scale to make a background or as a way of making layers, but it can also be
done as a form of embellishment.
Partially weaving into a piece can enhance your artwork. A smaller, woven item can be used as an
embellishment.
Paper, in
the form of cord or string, can be knitted, to create an interesting texture. This can be firm in its own right if the
paper cord/rope is thick but it can also be made firm by using a textile
stiffener if that is what your piece requires.
In addition
to paper, cardboard, particularly corrugated cardboard, can provide texture and
dimension to paper art. The top layer of
the cardboard can be torn or cut away revealing the corrugation beneath. This
provides interesting opportunities for stitch.
Paper
Beads
In addition
to die cuts, there are other categories of paper elements that can be added to
your work. One such element is a paper
bead. Paper beads can be made out of a wide variety of papers in an equally
wide variety of shapes and sizes.
Templates for various bead shapes are easily available.
The
thickness of the paper and the length and width of the template will determine
the size of the bead.
The
following video covers just about anything you would ever want to know about
making paper beads – it’s long but good.
She has also put time codes in the description so you can go to the
sections you are interested in without watching the entire video. (though it is
well done and easy to watch)
{MASSIVE} Fancy Paper Beads Tutorial
- YouTube
This next
video shows some wire wrapped beads made out of book pages. I included this video because the book page
beads are long, have quite a different feel to the regular paper bead and
include glass bead/pearls as well as wire.
They would give a distinctive look to your piece.
Paper casting
Paper
casting is the forming of paper from fibre or pulp using a dimensional mold.
The experimenting we are going to be doing will be with recycled paper or with
layers of napkin or toilet paper. Typically,
the paper would be soaked overnight or longer if you have the patience (this is
definitely needed for recycled paper) to break down the fibres into pulp. . Heating the water can also help break down
the fibres.
It helps if the soaked paper can be blended
using a household blender or immersion blender to further break down the
fibres. It is appropriate at this time to add a binder to the pulp. A bit of watered down PVA or methyl cellulose
or wheat or rice starch paste can be added. A lot is not needed. The finer the
pulp, the smoother the cast paper
DO NOT throw
the excess slurry water down a household drain when you are finished – it will
cause problems – the bits of fibre still in the water will harden when they
dry. Dispose of it outside or let it evaporate and save any dried fibre for
next time.
You can use
almost anything as a mold. I have used
deep cut rubber stamps. Carved wooden
blocks have been used, clay cookie stamps have been used. Silicone molds,
chocolate molds, and molds for polymer clay are just a few other examples.
Anything that has depressions in it can be used. If it is a rubber or plastic surface, the
paper won’t stick but it might to a porous surface so in that case it is wise
to spray the mold with a release agent – like a silicon release or a cooking
spray.
Scoop some
of the pulp and pat it into the mold. It
is good to protect your work surface because you will be removing the excess
water and the surface could get wet. Put
enough pulp into the mold to fill it and press down to compact the pulp and
more if necessary. You need to press the
pulp into all the depressions. You don’t want any air bubbles. When the pulp
fills the mold, you can use a sponge or soft cloths to press down on the
surface of the pulp to continue to compress it and to help remove some of the
excess water. When you have removed as much excess as possible, leave the pulp
to dry in the mold, naturally, in a warm place.
Use the point of a knife to gently release the paper from the mold when
dry.
Any excess
pulp can be put in an air-tight container and frozen until you want to use it
again.
Using pulp
is the best way to do paper casting but there is a quick a dirty way that
doesn’t involve the fuss and mess or making the pulp but still gives satisfactory results. This involves using layers of toilet paper or the extra plies of
napkins. Yes, that’s right, toilet
paper. These casting are a little more
delicate than the pulp variety and you have to take a bit more care to bond the
layers together, but you do get reliable results.
You need to
have some watered down PVA, or PVA/methylcellulose mix ready in a small
container because you are going to use this will a small, stiff paint brush to
tamp the layers of paper together to bond them.
When your mold is ready, tear a piece of toilet paper or napkin and lay it at the bottom of the mold. Dip your paint brush into the glue/water
mixture and tap the paper into the crevices of the mold. Lay the next piece of
paper into place and repeat the process. Keep adding paper and using the
glue/water mixture on the paint brush to tamp the layers together. The first
layers will seem to dissolve because the paper is so fragile, but gradually you
will begin to see the layers begin to build up.
This is something to do while you are listening to music or watching
TV. It is much slower than using the pulp,
but it doesn’t require the advance preparation and you don’t have to guess at
how much pulp you are going to need to make.
Once the
mold is full, you will use the sponge or cloth to press down on the paper to
remove any excess water from the paper. When it is as compressed and dry as
possible, leave it to dry completely in the mold and then remove
carefully. If the layers have been
completely saturated with the glue mixture, they should be bonded. The one weakness of this method is that if not
completely bonded, the layers can separate if handled too much. That is not a
problem if the piece is mounted and does not experience too much handling.
3D Embellishments from Toilet Paper
and Glue - YouTube
TOILET PAPER EMBELLISHMENTS | JUNK
JOURNAL DECORATIONS - YouTube
Paper Clay
You can
create your own dimensional embellishments using paper clay. This is also readily available from most
craft and art supply stores. It is a
staple in my home because I share the supply with a 12 year old who is very
artistic and loves to draw, animate and work with clay. Paper clay is an air dry product that does
not need any special tools or equipment to produce your embellishments. You need to protect your work surface – I use
my Teflon mat which wipes down easily. I
use a piece or plastic/acrylic tube as a roller to roll it out flat and you can
use anything to make a mark or impression.
I used the same molds that I had for paper casting as molds for paper
clay. My molds are flexible, so it is easy to get the dried clay out without
damaging either mold or clay. In fact,
it was possible to remove the damp clay from the molds. The dried clay can be
painted and sealed. If you are planning
to stitch your embellishment onto your piece, don’t forget to make the
stitching holes before it dries – that’s why I tried removing the clay from the
molds while damp. ¼” is a good thickness
for flat pieces.
There are
recipes on the internet for making your own paper clay.
Paper Mache Clay Recipe - The Easy
Original Recipe - YouTube
New Smoother Air Dry Clay Recipe -
YouTube
Note: You can’t
use DAP brand joint compound in these recipes – that brand doesn’t work for
some reason.
Polymer
Clay
This could
become an entire class on its own, but I wanted to throw this in because it can
be a great way to make molded or sculpted embellishments for those who like to
play with clay. It’s oven dried, comes
in many colours and is just fun. I
played with it years ago and only used one example in this class. I took some PREMO Sculpey (Brand name) and
rolled it out to about ¼” thickness and then I did a napkin image transfer to
put a design on it. That is a very easy
process that just involved taking the top layer of a napkin and putting it face
down on the clay, covering it with a bit of parchment paper and rubbing it
firmly with my finger. Now it’s ready to
bake in the oven according to the clay directions. (Mine baked at 250 for
between 20- -30 min)
The next
step is to remove the paper from the clay and just like with any other image
transfer you use water. You can spray
water on the back when the clay has cooled or dip it in water. I used the spray method. Rub your finger over the wet napkin surface and
the paper will begin to rub off. Keep wetting
and rubbing until you have removed the paper and left the ink from the image
behind.
Here is the
video where I got my inspiration:
Easy Napkin Transfers forPolymer Clay - YouTube
Artist
Links
Ersi Marina Samara Instagram
Stitched Paper Society
Instagram of group that follows stitched paper artists
