Star Book Samples

Star Books have certain characteristics in common.  When they are open they can have the appearance of a star.  When they are closed they look like a simple codex book. Other than that, their differences can be many.

Star books can be made from three differing sizes of accordion folded pieces of paper nested together or they can be made from 3 different sizes of  individually cut pieces of paper, nested and glued together.

The spines of  Star books can be sewn for extra stability or simply left to float.  There are no hard and fast rules about the structure of the Star book except for the fact that the layers of the Star must nest within each other and the overall structure gives the Star its shape.  The outer two layers of the Star are decorated to provide the content of the book.

The following are some examples of Star books that I have created using a variety of structures.

the spine is sewn using a french link stitch

nested cut pages top view

cover

sewn spine

most of the outer layer is cut away

nested cut pages

Christmas Cover

nested pages with cut out centre in outer layer

sewn spine

cover on accordion back - note cord to hold accordion closed

It's Complicated - interior page

It's Complicated - another interior page

(the cuts get increasingly complicated on the two layers)

Storage Book for ATC's

fold up pockets to hold Artist Trading Cards

the spine is not sewn

sewn spine

pop-up shows through cut out section in outer layer

top view

photos printed on transparency 

outer layer is long sheet of paper folded in one accordion layer

photos printed on transparencies show through cut outs as inner layers

spine is not sewn

CEG Class 4

Class 4:  Star Books:  Also known as carousel books come in several variations. Some are made from three sets of long accordion folded sheets of paper and others are made of many sets of cut and nested papers.  The model we will be making will take advantage of the smaller paper readily available in art and craft supply stores

Paper Preparation

1.      You will need to make colour and design choices for your book that will affect your paper choices

a.       What is your theme or quote?

b.      What colour choices will enhance or support that?

c.       Will you have cut outs in the outer layer? If so, the middle layer should complement in colour.

d.      The inner layer is usually only seen at the spine or from the top.  It could be covered in a decorative paper to add visual interest from the back.

e.       Consider the colour of the cover fabric and the thread you will use to sew the spine as it relates to your paper choice.

2.      Possible design variations may affect your paper choices

a.       Paper C can have an opening, like a frame, to reveal images or text or pop ups on paper B.

b.      Both papers Band C can have cut out openings.

c.       Both papers B and C can be of differing heights, to give the effect of a tunnel book.

d.      Paper C can be a long accordion fold paper that covers the cut edges of underlying layers.

e.       Pockets can be added to paper C

3.      Three colours of coordinating card stock or paper cut to the following dimensions

a.       Colour A         5 pieces           6” x 12”

b.      Colour B         5 pieces           6” x 9.5”

c.       Colour C         5 pieces           6” x 8”

d.      Colour A         10 pieces         6´x 2”

e.       Scrap               1 piece             6” x2” for sewing guide

Signature Preparation

Once you’ve made all your colour and design choices:

1.      Cut your paper to size.

2.      Create a sewing guide.  Fold the 6” x 2” strips of paper in half lengthwise then open again and mark at .5”, 1”, 2” 4”, 5” and 5.5” on the fold line.  You will use this guide when you punch holes in your signatures. Mark the top or head with a H in pencil.

3.      Fold the five Colour A 6” x 12” pieces and the 10 6” x 2” pieces in half.  These will be your spacers.

4.      A signature will be made up of one folded 6” x 6” piece with 2 spacers inside it

1.      Use a telephone book, large book or encyclopaedia as a punching cradle and use your awl to pierce the sewing stations that you marked on your sewing guide.  

2.      Repeat that on each signature. Remember to mark the top or head of each signature with a H in pencil.

Sewing the Signatures

 ..

1.      Beginning with the last signature, enter the first hole from the outside.  Leave a two inch tail of thread to tie a knot.  See the diagram above.

2.      From the inside of the signature, exit the second hole and enter the third hole from the outside.

3.      From the inside of the signature, exit the fourth hole and enter the fifth hold from the outside.

4.      From the inside of the signature, exit the sixth hole and place the next signature on top of the one just sewn, aligning the sewing stations.

5.      Enter the sixth hold from the outside.

6.      From the inside, exit the fifth hold and pass the needle under the thread that connects the fifth and fourth hold of the previous signature and then enter the fourth hold from the outside.  This is called a French link stitch.  Refer to the diagram above.

7.      From the inside, exit the third hole and pass the needle under the thread that connect the third and second hold of the previous signature then enter the second hold from the outside.

8.      From the inside, exit the first hole and tie a knot with the tail of the thread that was left for this purpose.  Trim the tail to .25” Place the next signature on top of the one just sewn aligning the sewing stations.  Enter the first hole from the outside.

9.      From the inside, exit the second hole and pass the needle under the thread that connects the second and third holes of the previous signature.  Make sure that you pass under the thread before it crosses with the thread from the original signature.  Enter the third hole from the outside.

10.  From the inside, exit the fourth hole and pass the needle under the thread that connects the fourth and fifth holes of the previous signature as described above. Enter the fifth hole from the outside

11.  From the inside, exit the sixth hole. Slide the needle between the first and second signatures so that the thread loops around the stitch at the sixth sewing station. You can simply make a loop or do a kettle stitch at this point.

12.  Place the next signature on top of the one just sewn, aligning the sewing stations.  Enter the sixth hole from the outside.

13.  Continue sewing the signatures together, catching the thread from the previous signature in a French Link stitch and using a chain stitch or a kettle stich on the first and sixth sewing stations.

14.  When you have entered the last sewing station on the final signature, secure your thread with two knots and trim the tail to .25” (you can also thread the tail to a needle and pull the tail into the inside of the signature, knot and trim)

Creating the Layers of the Star Book

This is where you do the creative work on the middle and outer layers of your book.  You do this before assembly. You will cut out any openings you will need and dry fit the pages together to make sure things line up the way you want them to in each section.  Now is the time to stamp your text or make any changes.  It becomes very difficult to make those adjustments once things are glued together.

Assembling the Layers

1.      Before using adhesive, dry fit layers together to make sure things are square.

2.      Apply adhesive to 1/8 -1/4” strip at fore edges  only

3.      Repeat for all signatures

4.      Repeat for all layers.

Cover Preparation

1.      Determine the substrate you want to use for the cover.  Since the book is made from paper it should be something firm to protect it

2.      Cover your substrate in fabric or decorated paper as shown

1.      Adhere ribbon to the inside of the cover pieces.

2.      Adhere the first signature to the front cover.

3.      Adhere the last signature to the back cover.

Use the ribbons to keep the book open or closed

Things to Consider

When you are planning your long stitch binding there are several things that you want to consider:
How many long stitches in your spine
Whether your cover will have a fold over flap
If you have a flap, what kind of closure will you have.

Spine Stitches

There is no one way to sew a long stitch binding.  As you look at reference materials and browse the internet and Pintrest you will see many examples.  You will see spines with just two long stitches in each signature.  You'll see spines with linking stitches that run across the head and tail of the spine with one long stitch in each signature.  You will see the long stitches gathered by a bead or button in the centre.  The only constant is that there will be a long stitch (or more than one) on the spine, attaching the signature to the cover.  

The Cover

You will need to decide if your cover is going to have a fold over flap or not.  It does not have to have one to be a long stitch binding.  This is simply a design choice that you are going to make.  The size of the flap is also up to you.  Whatever you think is appropriate to the fabric you are using for your book.   If you are making a flap you will need to make a closure of some sort.

Closures

You can use buckles, belts, hair bands, appliques, toggles, clasps, buttons, ribbons, elastic etc.  The possibilities are as boundless as your imagination.

I've used buckles and elastic and belts with great success.  Here are a few additional examples of journal closures.

A silver plastic buckle

This is a leather applique with a decorative cord wrapped around it.  The cord is also used as a design element on the flap.

This journal has a soft flannel cover that sticks to itself.  The edge of the flap is shaped and flower on the flap fits over the one on the cover (just -- I would allow more room next time)

The back of the journal shows that the spine has a bead on the long stitches.

Shows the cover opened.

Here are some links to good videos for sewing the long stitch with the link stitch:

Sea Lemon    (She is using two long stitches on her spine instead of the one we will be doing)

Dark Child    (This is quite long, the measuring starts at about 7 min and then the sewing starts at 15 mins.  The rest is how he prepares his paper and leather.)

CEG Class 3

Long Stitch Binding -- 

fold over flap:  multiple signature binding with long stitches and chain or kettle stitches linking signatures.

Paper Preparation

1.      Determine the size of the paper you plan to use.  i.e. 8 ½ x 11” or 8 ½ x 5 ½ “(standard sheet cut in half). 

2.      Determine the number of pages in the signature.

3.      Ideally, the grain should run parallel to the spine of the book.

4.      Fold the paper in half.

5.      Nest the papers inside each other and align the folds.

6.      Create the desired number of signatures.

Punching Holes in Signature

1.      Open your phone book to the middle to use as your punching cradle.

2.      Place the first signature, opened to the middle, into the fold of the phone book.

3.      Make a stitching template using a 2” strip of paper that is the same height as your pages.  Fold the strip in half lengthwise and mark the stitching holes (4 in this case) on the inside of the fold line.   The top and bottom holes should be at least ½ “from the edge of the paper.  Mark the top of your template with an H for Head.

4.      Place the template into the centre fold of your pages in the cradle.  Align edges carefully.

5.      Use your awl or piercing tool to punch the holes indicated on the stitching template.  Hold your piercing tool perpendicular to the paper to make sure the holes go through the folds of the signature.

6.      Repeat for all signatures. Use an arrow or the letter H to mark the top or head of the signatures.  This will make sure the holes on the signatures line up when you begin to sew.

 

note that paper strip is folded in half lengthwise and the holes are in the fold

Cover Preparation

1.      Determine the dimensions of your cover.  Remember the rule of thumb:  Your cover should be at least ¼” wider and taller than your pages -- be sure to add in the width of the spine for your final measurement.  Add additional length for your flap.

2.      Decide how you will edge your cover.  i.e.  wrapped edges or decorative stitching on the edges.  This will determine the dimensions of your fabric.  Refer back to the General Rules of Thumb in the overview section to determine the measurements of your fabric.

3.      Decorate your cover as you wish.  Keep embellishments away from the spine area.  You will need space for stitching the signatures to the spine.

4.      Determine the closure that you would like for your book.  If you are going to use a button and loop, you will need to determine the placement of the loop or tie before you finish the edges of your cover.

                

Punching Holes in Cover

1.      Using a 2” strip of paper, the same height as your pages, make a template to indicate where the holes should be punched on the spine.  You will need one column of holes for each signature.

2.      Find the spine area of your cover and centre the template between the top and bottom edges of the cover.

3.      Tape or clip the template into place.

4.      Place your cover on a cutting mat or piece of cardboard and use the awl to punch holes in the spine fabric.

Stitching the Signatures

1.      Determine the thread length needed by measuring the height of the book once for each signature and once for the loops between signatures and tying off  the ends.

2.      Use binder clips to hold pages of signature together for sewing.

3.      Line the first signature up with the holes punched into the spine of the cover.  Make sure the head of the signature is at the top of the cover.

4.      Enter the top hole from the outside and leave about a 3” tail.

5.      From the inside of the signature, go out the second hole (this will begin the longstitch).  You can add beads at this point, but make sure they will lie snugly along the spine between the second and third holes. 

6.      Enter the third hole from the outside of the cover.

7.      Enter the last hole from the inside of the signature.

8.      Place the next signature on top of the one just sewn and prepare to use the second column of holes punched into the spine.

9.      From the exterior of the spine, enter the bottom hole in the second signature.

10.  From inside the signature, go out the next hole (this is the longstitch).  Beads can be added at each longstitch if desired.

11.  From the exterior enter the next stitch.

12.  From the interior enter the top stitch.

13.  Use the tail from the first signature to tie a square knot.  The tail can be left long and beaded or trimmed.

14.  Line up the third signature.

15.  From the exterior enter the top hole of the third signature and continue to work your way in and out, down the spine.

16.  When exiting the bottom hole of the third signature, loop your needle under the thread that attaches the first and second signatures together.

17.  Line up the fourth signature and from the exterior, enter the bottom hole.

18.  Continue the stitches up to the head of the book. 

19.  When exiting the top hole of the fourth signature, loop your needle under the thread that attaches the second and third signatures together.

20.  Line up the fifth signature and enter the top hole from the exterior of the spine.

21.  Continue the stitches to the bottom of the book. 

22.  When you exit the final hole in signature five, loop your needle around the thread that attaches the third and fourth signature together. 

23.  Re-enter the last hole of the fifth signature and tie a square knot around the inside stitch.  Trim the tails.