Showing posts with label tissue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tissue. Show all posts

Thursday, January 25, 2024

Lesson 1

Getting Started

Video - Samples of Vessels

Now that you’ve got all your materials assembled, it’s time to get started.

1.  1.  Prepare your adhesive.  Your glue should be the consistency of milk.  What I’ve read says 50/50 water/glue, but I must admit that I’m not that accurate.  I start with my glue (which is usually what I have on hand as all-purpose white PVA – Elmers School Glue or Glue All), then I add water until it is thins to the consistency of milk.  It might be slightly different depending upon the glue that you use – thinner glues need less water.  You just need it to spread easily.

 

2.   2.  Tear your paper into strips.  I usually keep my strips about ¾” to 1” wide if possible.  The length will vary.  I started out using longer strips but began experimenting with smaller pieces 2” – 4” in length.  I find the smaller pieces can give less wrinkling as you are building up layers, but I also find a few longer pieces across the surface of the balloon can be an effective way to begin.  Experiment and see what works for you.  You will find that the WST (wet strength tissue) and most paper, tears better in one direction than the other.  It is better to work with the grain than against it.  Tear a substantial number of strips – better to have too many than too few.

 

3.    3.  Protect your work area – it can get a bit messy.  Have a damp cloth to clean your hands.  Have extra water in case you need to thin your glue as it remains open.

 

4.    4.  Blow up your balloon to the size you desire and secure it with masking tape to a container to raise it from your workspace and to stabilize it while you are working on it.  I use bowls, jars, cardboard rings – anything that will give a firm base.  Use as much masking tape as you need to secure the balloon to the container.  I sometimes have a problem with the masking tape releasing at inopportune moments – not good!

 

5.    5.  Now you are ready to begin applying your paper strips to the balloon. You can give the balloon a spritz of water to hold the first strip and then use your brush to apply the glue on top or apply a coat of glue directly to the balloon and place the paper on the glue and then apply more glue on top.  Either method will work. Overlap your next strip of paper and apply glue with your brush.  Use your brush to smooth down the paper. Keep applying strips (or patches, as the small pieces of paper are called) until you have covered as much of the balloon as you want.

 Video - Making a Paper Mache Vessel

6.    6.  You can add a second layer of tissue without waiting for the first to dry.  You will find that when adding the next layer of paper, the glue on the surface will grab the tissue and make it easy for you to smooth it down with your brush.  Sometimes very little extra glue is needed for the second layer.  Add it judiciously.  You don’t want to make things too wet. I place my strips/patches on in a random way.  I find that adds to strength.  If I put a vertical over a horizontal it is stronger than two vertically seamed areas.  Two to three layers will give you a strong yet relatively thin vessel.  I might have more layers on the base of the vessel for stability and less on the sides but that is purely a matter of personal taste (and the fact that I plan to stitch and pierce holes on the sides)

 

7.    7.  I usually let it dry overnight.  You can always add more layers once it is dry if you like.  If the edges appear too thin, this can be the time to add more layers or define them a bit more. If you want to reinforce the edges, remember to go in the opposite direction.


 8.  The last step is to release the vessel from your mold – the balloon.  I don’t poke the balloon; I undo it so I can control the air release (If you find you can’t undo it, you can stretch the neck of the balloon, pinch/twist it closed and cut off the very top near the knot). You want to slowly release the air so that you can loosen the glue and paper from the balloon and not deform your vessel – it is fragile, and it is stuck to the balloon.  As the balloon slowly deflates, pry the paper from the balloon. Once you start to do this it should come away easily. Once you go all around the edges (the weakest area) you can’t let the air out more quickly.  The balloon will peel away from the paper, and you are left with your vessel.  You can trim your edges or leave them as they are.

     Video - Releasing the Vessel 








Friday, January 12, 2024

Materials

 Paper Based Vessels

video - materials

Materials and Tools

Translucent paper – wet strength tissue paper (I use Carnival brand)
Tracing paper, rice paper, Japanese paper (you want something that will stand up to wet adhesive (Paper should be torn into strips about ¾”- 1” wide” (for medium vessels). Length determined by size of vessel)

Adhesive – watered PVA glue (about 50%-50%) in a closeable container

Applicator -- paint brush 1” or ¾”

Paper clay -- optional – I used Creative Paper Clay (purchased from craft/art supply stores) but there are DIY recipes online. Experimenting with this is completely optional.

Mold shapes
-- balloons, bowls covered in plastic wrap, silicon containers (If using balloons, you will need something to support them – I’ve used an empty margarine container, a center ring from used Duct Tape etc. If using hard shapes, you may want to cover with plastic wrap.

Damp cloth -- keeping hands free from glue

Masking tape - optional – to secure balloon to support

Fibres, scrim optional -- to add to vessel

Awl -- to poke holes in vessels for sewing

Thread -- heavyweight thread or crochet cotton, (I use #10 or #20 because I have it on hand) in desired colours

Needles -- eye of needle needs to be suitable size for the thread/fibre you are using

Crochet hook -- to add crochet if desired (additional buttonhole stitch can be added instead) 2mm – 3.5 mm hook will work

Cutting tool -- optional -- to add openings to your vessels -- scalpel or exacto blade (needs to be sharp to cut paper without a lot of pressure being added – have extra blades available)

Scissors -- optional – if you wish to trim the edges of your vessel

Paper Based Vessels

 Welcome

This class is going to be about making vessels of different shapes and sizes using a variety of paper based techniques and materials.  While teaching Paper, Paint, Stitch and More… I discovered paper artists who also explored the use of paper in 3 dimensional ways and that led me to those who made paper vessels.

  I was smitten.  They were so beautiful, so delicate yet strong, so organic.  The only problem was that I couldn’t find a lot of instructions ---  just a few images here and there of some very intriguing vessels with a caption underneath mentioning the materials used to create them.

That led to a lengthy period of dropping down rabbit holes and following images back to artist blogs, searching online and experimentation.  If you are hoping for all the answers, I’m sorry, I don’t have them.  What I do have to share are my experiences working with several types of paper (the number is constantly growing as I sort through what I have on hand) to make paper mâché vessels, as well as some time spent dabbling with paper clay and paper pulp to see how that adapts to making vessels.

I found that for me, making the vessel was just the first step.  As happy as I might be with the shape, if it sits still long enough, I want to put some stitches into it.  Luckily, paper and I have a happy history when it comes to stitching.  I find it a very rewarding medium to work with and while the 3-dimensional shape might provide a challenge occasionally, it’s one I enjoy.

The list of things that I still want to try is longer than the list of things that I have tried, and I am hoping that I will get to experiment with some of those ideas during this class.  It all starts with, “I wonder what would happen if …?”  Once you’ve made a vessel or two, you’ll know just what I mean.

wet strength tissue, scrim, stitching, crochet



Canson tracing paper, sisal fibre





wet strength tissue, scrim




wet strength tissue, cut outs, stitching



Paperclay vessel, crochet



Paperclay vessel, crochet


Paperclay vessel ready to stitch, (paperclay was fresh from package)

wet strength tissue, red stitching, crochet

paper string



wrapped paper string



Thursday, February 24, 2022

Paper, Paint, Stitch and More... Lesson 3

 Layers

Lesson 3 Presentation Video

As referenced in the previous lesson, there are many types and weights of paper that can be used for stitching and essentially it becomes a matter of personal preference.  Once you have taken into account the necessary stability required for your work, the choice of paper is up to you. You will be making the decision of whether your finished piece will be mounted on another substrate and therefore it does not need to be substantial in and of itself or whether it must stand or be displayed on its own.

Paper can be layered to provide greater strength and this layering also provides interesting creative options.

 

Simple layers

  • Some paper/textile artists use two or more sewn layers of paper (folded and not) to create amazing geometric works of art
  • White on white layers can be mesmerizing in their simplicity and complexity

 

Collage

  • Different colours and weights of papers providing background interest to stitch
  • Use of translucent and textured paper
  • Prints from Gelli plates or stencils providing form to be stitched
  • Torn edges to provide texture


Weaving

  • Paper weaving can provide texture and visual interest
  • Paper string as a component of the weaving
  • Other media woven into the paper (more on this in a later lesson)

 

Ephemera

  • Will be considered as a separate topic

 

Modifying Paper to Use for Layers

There are a number of methods, or surface treatments, that can be applied to paper to make it an interesting layer for use in a project.  Let’s look at just a few.

I use diluted acrylic paint as a glaze on tissue paper to make stained tissue for coloured papers for collage work. I’ll direct you to great videos for this technique.  Just as the video suggests – you do want to set aside some time and space for making the papers. You are going to enjoy the process and just like potato chips, you aren’t going to want to stop after just one.

Tissue Paper Staining, neutrals - YouTube

Shibori Fold and Dye Technique on Rice Paper - YouTube


I’ve included a few videos to give you some different takes on using  acrylic paint to colour tissue paper for use in your backgrounds for stitching.

Howto Use White Tissue to Make Great Collage Paper - YouTube

Making Collage (tissue) Paper with Marie Cummings - YouTube

 

The same videos that you saw about Gelli printing on regular paper in Lesson 2 can be applied to tissue paper to make collage papers.

You can also use diluted acrylic medium to add fibres such as string to tissue paper to make a textured paper for your project.  The following video will show you the steps – it’s really quite easy.

How to MakeTextured Paper - YouTube


Embossing paper can provide a subtle but effective texture.

How to Emboss Paper with Awesome Designs - YouTube

If you have card making supplies like embossing folders or stencils, this video may be of use to you:

How to emboss without a machine - YouTube


Something as simple as crumpling tissue paper, copy paper, paper that comes as protective packaging in parcels can provide an interesting texture to paper that is then painted and used as a layer in your project.  The paint or ink will be darker in the creases and provide and interesting effect that could enhance your stitching. We spoke of this last lesson.


If you want the look of layers without the stiffness of a regular collage, you could consider making fabric paper or paper fabric.  This is the technique of layering/bonding thin papers on a base of thin fabric using a liquid medium.  Typically, a fine cheesecloth or muslin is used as the base  (though even dryer anti static sheets work) and a wide range of delicate papers may be used to build up the paper layers.  Diluted acrylic medium or PVA glue is used to bond the layers together.  The texture of the diluted medium should be like milk so that it can easily saturate the papers and not tear the delicate fibres.

Learn to Make Paper Cloth! - YouTube

Making Paper Fabric Two Ways


Handmade paper has a unique texture, particularly if it is a recycled paper.  The thicker quality of the paper and the deckle edges give a stitched piece a character all its own.  Making recycled paper does not have to be a difficult  or expensive undertaking.


Making Your Own Paper

If you want to try some simple recycled papermaking, here are a couple of videos showing how to do it without investing in much more than dollar store supplies. You will need a bit of patience to let the paper pieces soak to soften but it is workable.  If you put the paper through a shredder, it will be smaller and if you soak it longer it will disintegrate even more.  You can use an immersion blender if you don’t have a large one or even pull it apart by hand if you have the patience. (Make sure to clean the blender out well when you are finished). When you are squeezing the water out, you can also run a rolling pin over the tea towel to get some extra water out.  Make sure you protect your surface before you start this project.

How to Make Paper | HomemadePaper (Recycled) - YouTube

Handmade Paper using dollar tree supplies / without blender tips - YouTube

My Attempts

 

Acrylic ink or diluted acrylic paint added to the paper slurry will add colour to the paper but will stain any towels that are used to dry the pages. (a sponge might be better in this case)  The colour will be lighter when the paper dries.


Creating Fibre Skin Layers

Paper is made out of plant fibres – cotton, cellulose, mulberry and many different kinds of barks and plants. It is a matter of breaking down the plant fibres so that they can be beaten and pulped and recombined into sheets of paper. We are going to take a look as something slightly different and the term used is skins.  This comes from the fact that acrylics, when left to dry, will form a pliable skin on a non-porous surface that can be carefully removed in one piece.  We are going to use that property to make a sisal fibre skin that can be used to add texture and dimension to your work.  It is easy to stitch through and easy to manipulate.

To begin you will need a non-porous surface to work on.  I used freezer paper, and cling wrap but a Teflon sheet or plastic sheet would work. You will need watered down acrylic medium (consistency of milk), a brush that you use with acrylic medium, and a piece of sisal rope.

You need to separate the strands of sisal rope and keep separating them until all you have are fibres.  My rope consisted of three large strands which broke down into smaller strands, which then broke down into fibres. Start with a piece that is 4’ to 5’ in length. It is easier to unravel smaller pieces than larger ones.  You can always cut more.

Brush a layer of the diluted medium on the freezer paper and begin laying down the fibres (though the fibres are so thin, it also works with just a layer of medium on the top of the fibres - that is necessary if you are using cling film because the medium just beads up on the film). When the fibres are in place, put more medium on top of the fibres to hold them in place.  Let everything dry and then peel the sisal off the backing.

In the video below, you’ll see that I used cling film for this try.

Making a Sisal Skin

Making a Cheesecloth Skin with Text   It was an interesting idea


Weaving Paper

Weaving paper strips can add a lot of texture to your piece.  In fact, you can create an entirely new piece of paper from scrap strips of paper that will provide an interesting background for your work. We all have offcuts of paper from trimming things down to size.  If you’re like me, it’s hard to throw beautiful and even not so beautiful paper away because you never know when that piece may be just the one you need.  Well, now the time has come.

If you don’t have a pile of scraps, you can take old book pages, old maps, artwork you are unhappy with, pieces of wrapping paper, newspaper, or even paper you paint especially for this purpose and cut up just for weaving.

Here is a video that shows a very simple way to do a basic under over weave that let’s you secure as you go and doesn’t have you working with too many strips at once.  Those weavers among you, please feel free to disregard this method.

Weaving Paper Scraps Part 1- Weaving and Stitching - YouTube

The following is a link to some free paper weaving patterns:

Paper Weaving Patterns | Kids Paper Crafts | Origami Resource Center(origami-resource-center.com)

I will be sending you Paper Weaving Templates  –  my license allows for personal use by my class only (not to be distributed or shared to others)

Paper weaving to aspire to:  (I can only dream – but her work is so beautiful, that I had to share the video)

Jessica Pribula, Paper Weaving - YouTube

 

Paper String

In addition to paper weaving, paper string can be added to you piece or even used as a component in the weaving. It can be purchased inexpensively from $ stores and craft stores and even made from newspaper or other delicate papers.

Paper thread or yarn is made by cutting continuous strips of thin paper from a large sheet. These are then rolled until they form one long thread. The Japanese use this thread to make a traditional woven cloth called Shifu.

The following is a video demonstrating the process of rolling the strips:

Rolling Paper Strips into a Thread - YouTube

This video shows the process of cutting the paper into strips and shows an abbreviated rolling procedure to give an overview of the entire process.

Paper Thread making for Shifu- YouTube

When you work with newspaper or tissue paper or any other delicate paper, you cut the paper into thin strips 1cm to 1” and roll in between your fingers to get the twist.  When you get close the end of one strip (about an inch from the end) overlap the beginning of the next strip of paper and continue twisting.  There will be a slight thickening of the paper thread but that is to be expected.  Sometimes it helps to slightly dampen the paper before you begin to work on it. Remember that western papers are delicate because the fibres are short.

You can also twist the paper using a drop spindle.  You would join the paper strips in much the same way as working by hand.  Here is a video by Noreen Crone-Findlay to explain:

How to Spin Brown Paper Yarn by Noreen Crone-Findlay - YouTube


Artist Links

Amy  Bonsor

Anca Gray    instagram

Anne Brooke

Armen Rotch

Bianca Severijns

Cynthia Schaffer

Dawn Whitehand

Diana Taylor

Eva Camacho-Sanchez

Fiona Dempster

Ines Seidel

Jennifer Davies

Kelly O’Brien

Liz Sofield

Marian Jazmik

Pat Littlefield

Priscilla Robinson

Raymond Saá

Rita J McNamara

Stephanie Deveaux

Wendy Watson at Late Start Studio

Wendy Brightbill

SusanBowers

 


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