Wednesday, October 8, 2025

Paper, Paint, Stitch and More ...

Lesson 2: Paint

As mentioned in Lesson 1, it is important to use a paper that can stand up to wet media if you intend to apply colour.  I typically use a 140 lb. (300 gsm) watercolour paper if I am applying watercolour or acrylic paint to my base layer.  If you are using lighter weight paper, you need to take appropriate measures (taping the paper to a  hard surface while drying) to ensure your paper does not buckle while applying colour if changes in paper texture bother you.

My first foray began with circles.  I have a fascination with circles – always have.  They have appeared in my stitching in the past and will probably continue to appear in the future.  They have appeared in my journals and in my collage work.  No surprise then when it seemed natural to use them as a beginning point in a painted background. 

I began by using watercolour to paint circles in two colours on 5.5” x 7.5” pieces of watercolour paper that I had torn down from a larger sheet.  They were leftover pieces from strips I hadn’t used in a book project. I painted 2, 3, and 4 circles randomly on the page and then decided how I was going to stitch on them.  There was no preplanning, just circles placed randomly using colours that I liked.  I used a spool of button thread to trace my circle and #12 perle cotton to stitch with. I decided my circles would  be a solid colour and that I would connect circles of the same colour.  I would keep everything in straight lines (because it was easy, because lines and circles appealed to me, and because it came to me that I could weave where threads crossed).

Eventually, I attempted a less structured form of watercolour and stitch, but I found I liked Alicia Godwin’s stitching style more than mine.  I was keeping to hard edges, and she followed the soft edges of her watercolours which gave her work a more organic look that I think looks better.

Water colour led to acrylic paint – I really enjoy this medium.  I don’t paint anything specific, just splash colour on the page and when dry, stitch into it in any way I wish.  (Which led to holes but that’s another topic) 

Acrylic paints and inks can also be used for mono printing.  If you have used a Gelli plate you know what I mean.  Gelli plate printing is a lot of fun but can be an entire course on its own.  I’ve included a link to some videos on Gelli plate printing for those who would like to see what it’s like for future experimentation. 

The Basics: What You Need To Know When You Start Gel Printing by Birgit Koopsen - YouTube

Making Multi Layered Gel Prints in One Pull - YouTube

 

Another way to get somewhat similar effects is to use acrylic paint and stencils.  The stencils can be purchased or made.  Creating your own designs gives you complete creative control.    Cover a piece of paper (both sides) in packing tape.  This will make it moisture resistance so you can reuse it. Cut out a shape from the paper.  If you can, keep the shape you’ve cut. This will be a mask.  The paper with the hole is the stencil.  You can apply acrylic paint over the stencil (lightly daub paint using a stubby brush or a sponge) making sure the paint is not too runny or it will go under the edges of the stencil.  If you daub paint over the mask (the shape you cut out) you will get the silhouette of the shape.  This can be an interesting effect for foliage shapes.  You can get positive and negative spaces.

If you need to get more mileage out of your acrylic paints, these videos on acrylic mediums and gels are excellent.

2015 Topic 15: Acrylic Mediums {on the paperArtsy Blog} - YouTube

2015 Topic 15: Acrylic Gels {on the PaperArtsy Blog} - YouTube

 

If you like working with inks, either alcohol or acrylic, they can be a great way to colour a surface in preparation for stitching.  With alcohol inks, you want to have a surface that isn’t immediately absorbent so that you have time to move the colour around.  Yupo paper is a perfect example.  It is a polypropylene based sheet, 100% recyclable that comes in white or translucent. Any art store will carry it.  It will accept ink and should be sealed with Krylon Kamar Varnish (several light coats) before stitching if you are planning more than just a practice piece.  I’ve watched artists do incredible things, but I have to admit, my experiments are just that – experiments.  I haven’t really created anything I’ve really loved even though I’ve had a lot of fun doing it.

Alcohol Ink Tutorial For Beginners - YouTube   it’s long but thorough

Creating Tissue Fabric - Paint, Cut and Stitch  Using Acrylic Ink on Tissue Paper – Susan Purney Mark (Canadian Textile Artist)

 

Ink can come in a different form as well.  If you’ve used Derwent Inktense pencils or blocks on fabric than you have an idea of how to use them on paper.  You don’t need fabric medium or aloe vera gel, you just need water, and the ink will be set once it’s dry.

Inky Papers for my Stash - Inktense Blocks and Pencils with Stencils & Mark Making - YouTube

Top 10 Tips for using Derwent Inktense Blocks & Pencils 😱 - YouTube

 

 

Don’t forget tea and coffee staining paper to add colour.  If you like working with neutrals or an antique look.  This technique is a standby.

Tutorial: Tea Dyeing and Baking Paper with Mrs. Cog - YouTube

How To Coffee Stain Your Paper Using Plastic Doilies - YouTube

How to create your own pattern paper COFFEE EDITION - YouTube

 

Those are just some ways to add colour to a sheet of paper and there are definitely more.  The idea you need to take from this is – you aren’t limited to the original colour of the paper.

What appeals to you as a method of adding colour to your base paper? Do you prefer a random or planned approach? Watercolour, acrylic or ink?  Pick one method (or more, the choice is yours) to add colour to your base paper, and stitch into it.  Keep it simple this week, just one layer of paper, as our inspiration artists have done– we’ll be looking at layers/collage  in a future lesson.

 

Realism VS Abstract

As you will see when you take a look at the inspiration artists below,  you have a choice between using colour to create a realistic background or an abstract one.  The choice is yours and is probably based on your preference (and in my case, ability).  Several of our inspiration artists created realistic backgrounds – landscapes, water and sky, windows, gardens etc. and used those as backdrops for their embroidery.  Others simply used splotches of colour or geometric shapes as the basis for their embroidered designs.

Whatever your choice, and whatever your medium, you will undoubtedly find a combination (or several) that allow you the freedom to explore and enjoy adding colour to your paper and then adding stitches.

While you have your paints, inks and dyes out – and are making a bit of a mess anyway – take a moment and add some colour to paper that you can use later on when we get to Class 3 : Layers.  We will be looking and working with some of those papers that came in your kit but while you have your colours out you could be making some custom collage papers if you are thinking ahead.

Painted Background – demo video

 

Artist Links

Karin Lundström on Instagram

Alicia Godwin (@painted_lady_studio) • Instagram photos and videos  

AyakaMP on Instagram:    watercolour and stitch

Ana Falceta

Jenna Decker

Rhian Swierat  instagram

SallyBrandl

Sally Kheng

Vianailustra

MichelleWatson

Annwyn Dean

Demi Overton

Amanda Hislop

 

Tuesday, October 7, 2025

Cyanotypes

This process has been around since the 1800’s and is an alternative photographic process known for its cyan blue or “Prussian” colour. It is based on a chemical reaction involving UV light. Ferric Ammonium Citrate and Potassium Ferricyanide are combined to produce a light sensitive mixture that is applied to a substrate; ideally, a cotton-based paper or fabric.

Materials

1.    Pre-prepared paper (in dark zip locked bag)

                              or - Ferric Ammonium Citrate and  Potassium Ferricyanide

                              mixed in equal amounts

                        and - cotton based paper

2.      UV light source – Sunlight or UV light if working indoors

3.      Gloves to protect your hands from staining when applying solution and from the chemical when you are rinsing.

 

Preparation

1.      Gather plant materials or items to be used and plan displays ahead of time – before taking prepared paper from dark storage.

2.      If you are making your own papers with a newly mixed solution, do this in a darkened room (no daylight or diffused daylight), use a sponge brush and let the paper dry for 24 hours in a dark location.

3.      When you know how you want your items displayed, place prepared paper on a piece of cardboard that is larger than the paper, place your items on the paper in the manner you wish, cover them with a piece of acetate, plexi or glass and clamp or tape down securely against possible movement by wind.  The flatter your botanical pieces are the better your results will be.

4.      Make sure the glass/acetate/plexi is larger than your paper.  You don’t want the clamps or tape to show on your page.

5.      Work on one at a time until you see how the exposure time works for the items you’ve gathered.

 

Exposure

1.      Exposure can vary depending upon conditions. The pre-prepared paper requires 10-20 minutes depending on the sun conditions and the thickness of the botanical materials.

2.      Paper coated with solution can vary from 5 minutes to 20 + minutes depending upon conditions.

Development

1.      After being exposed the print needs to be rinsed in water for several minutes until the water runs clear.  The pre-prepared paper does not need quite as much rinsing as freshly coated paper.

2.      You can rinse under running water or rinsed in a basin of water for a minute or so, gently swishing the prints around.  Try to handle them by the edges of the paper, or on the palm of your hand.  Note:  Use gloves – you are rinsing chemicals from the paper.

3.      You can hang them to dry out of direct light or lay them on a drying rack.  I lay mine on absorbent cloth on a shelf in a darkened room.

4.      *Adding some Hydrogen Peroxide to your rinse water will deepen the blue of your prints.

 

Demo video – my experiments using the same paper that is in your kit

Reference Videos (a few of the videos that I found helpful getting started)

Cyanotype prints for beginners | National Museums Liverpool

(180) Advanced cyanotype prints - YouTube

How to Cyanotype Print on Paper by Daisy Bow Craft

 

Jacquard makes the chemicals (in a kit) if you are interested in trying to prepare your own paper or fabric for cyanotype printing.

 

If you are interested in continuing to print over the winter and would like to do it inside

Make an Easy Indoor Exposure Light for Cyanotype Printing - Barb

 

Eco Friendly Sun Printing Using Turmeric

Turmeric is an orange yellow coloured spice. Curcumin, a chemical found in turmeric, is known for its long-time use as a fabric dye.

It is also a photosensitizer. That means it reacts when exposed to light. This allows us to use it in anthotype printing. Anthotype printing means using plant products and exposing them to the sun to produce images on materials like paper and cloth – also known as sun prints.

What you’ll need:

Turmeric (about a teaspoon) 5 ml

Isopropyl alcohol (3Tablespoons) 45 ml

Filter (cloth, cheesecloth or coffee filter)

Container for filtered liquid

Container to mix ingredients

Cheap paintbrush (it’s going to get stained)

Paper strong enough to withstand getting wet

Tray with water

Borax or baking soda to neutralize process  (will be added to water in tray)

Glass, cardboard, clamps

Botanical specimens for printing

 

Process:

1.      Wear gloves and apron to protect hands and clothes from staining.

2.      Mix turmeric, alcohol together

3.      Filter mixed ingredients through cloth or coffee filter into clean jar

4.      Use paint brush to paint filtered solution onto paper and allow to dry for about 15 minutes.

5.      Arrange botanicals on paper placed on cardboard and cover with glass

6.      Clamp glass into place

7.      Place into direct sunlight and leave for 4 -5 hours or more depending on the intensity of the sun and time of year.

8.      Add 2 teaspoons of Borax or Baking soda per 1/2 cup warm water in tray to neutralize reaction

9.      Soak paper after exposure for up to a minute

10.  Rinse in clean water

11.  Dry on paper towel or hang to dry (note these prints can fade over time so store in dark area)

Sun Printing with Turmeric - DIY Turmeric Anthotypes

 

 

Thursday, September 25, 2025

Paper, Paint, Stitch and More ...

Introduction

The difficulty for me in organizing this course has always been, not what I wanted to share with you, but how to edit what I wanted to share.  I have been exploring and experimenting with my two loves, paper, and stitch for a while now, trying to find what appeals most to me, where my creative bent lies.  I’m coming to think I have a dual personality in that regard.

I’m attracted to very precise stitching on paper, geometric and linear as well as a very random and almost raw or organic stitching. I find white on white or neutrals appealing and Zen-like while appreciating the shock value of vivid colour on white or black.  I can appreciate the beauty and soul in a limited, muted colour palette while finding joy in vibrant colours.  Manipulation of paper can add dimension as well as texture to a stitched piece giving complexity versus simplicity.  Adding metal opens up new areas to explore.  There are no boundaries.  I am only now beginning to narrow down some of the elements that strongly appeal to me.

What I am hoping to do in this class  is show you some of the paths I’ve travelled; expose you to techniques I’ve come across in my journey (and wherever possible provide you with references and video links to those techniques) and show you some of the work of the artists who’ve inspired me.

Not every technique will be of interest to every person and not every style will appeal.  I’m hoping that you will take what appeals and follow that path.  Every creative journey is unique and meanders in its own way.  It’s my hope that over the next six lessons you will discover some interesting paper/textile artists and add to your own repertoire of skills. The number of inspiration artists has grown since this class was first taught and my own personal tastes have changed somewhat over the intervening years.  I hope you enjoy the journey.


 Paper

One of the first things to explore is stitching into a paper background. At this point, we are or still dealing with a single sheet of paper.  Speaking of paper, when you begin you want to have a relatively sturdy paper to work with.  I typically use a 140lb or 300 gsm watercolour paper.  I have worked with 90lb  or 190 gsm (or lesser weight paper) but you need to take some precautions  if and when using wet media to keep your paper from buckling when drying (tape it to a flat surface)  I’ve included a link to a guide to looking at paper weights – it can be very confusing to determine the weight and thickness of paper when you use the lb measurement.  The gsm is a much more reliable measurement for paper weight and sturdiness. 

What Is GSM Paper? Everything You Need to Know.

 

 

Paper Sizes

There are two main paper size systems used in the world – ANSI (American National Standard Institute) used in North America and ISO (International Organization for Standardization) used internationally.

In Canada, we are more familiar with ANSI which gives us Letter and Legal-size paper, while Europe uses A4 and A3 sizes.   The international system is based on an aspect ratio format which is equal to the square root of 2.  This is handy in measurement. The A system (most used) is based on the A0 which has an area of 1 square metre.  Each size category, when folded in half, will give you the next size category below it, unlike the ANSI system in which all levels have unique measurements.

A Series Paper Sizes Chart - A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, A6, A7, A8

 

ANSI paper sizes ISO

 

Lesson 1:  Stitch

You can look at stitching on paper from a couple of perspectives: hand stitching, machine stitching, and a combination of the two

Points to consider when Hand stitching

·         Paper is not forgiving – when you make a hole to stitch through, it’s permanent – there is no unpicking your work.  The only thing you can do it live with it or cover it up with more paper.

·         The thicker the paper, the harder it is to sew through but the more stable the surface

·         The more layers you have, the harder it is to sew through

·         The thicker the thread, the larger the needle eye, therefore the larger the hole required

·         When you have thick paper or a lot of layers of paper, it is hard to be spontaneous with your stitches because the holes for stitching usually need to be pre-punched for sewing

·         When pre-punching holes, do so on a soft surface – a layer of foam or several newspapers, corrugated cardboard, etc. (something that has a bit of give to it)

·         An awl or paper piercer or large needle will work as piercing tool

 

Tools for Stitching Paper: A Flashback to the Past  (the tools I mention are available on Amazon, ebay and etsy for outrageous prices)

Beginners Hand Stitching for Paper Crafts - YouTube

Simple Geometric Stitching on Cards - YouTube

Create Circle templates

 

Points to consider when machine stitching

·         Use a longer than normal stitch length – stitches that are too close together will simply perforate the paper making it easy to tear along the stitch line

·         Dedicate one needle to working on paper – paper will eventually dull the needle, and you won’t want to use it on fabric.  (Mark it with a bit of marker or nail polish so you can tell which one is for paper use)

·         Free motion embroidery is possible on paper – making an outline of an image or adding text on multiple layers or backed with thin muslin

·         Tension is not always the same for paper as for fabric so test on a scrap (standard procedure)

 

Fundamental tips for machine sewing into paper - YouTube

Free machine embroidery....on paper?! - YouTube     10 min  starts the actual construction of the collage to be stitched 

 

Designing Simple Patterns

There are many ways to begin designing your own simple patterns.  If you can draw (I’m challenged that way), you can simply sketch lightly on your substrate surface in pencil and then mark out your holes for stitching at regular intervals.  When your pattern is complete, you can erase any pencil marks that remain.

If you are like me, or you plan to recreate the item several times, you can make a template on  separate, lightweight piece of paper.  I frequently use dotted or lined grid paper for this purpose since I like working with geometric designs.   I also find that having a stitching template that has connecting lines drawn on it, is extremely helpful when I go to complete my design.  When you remove your template and you are faced with dozens if not hundreds of holes in a piece of paper it can be hard to remember where you had planned to stitch.  The first template on the left is the hole placement mentioned in the video Simple Geometric Stitching on Cards listed above.

L  template                                                                               R template

Sizes for Card Making

When starting to stitch on paper, card making is an easy size to work with. Cutting an 8 ½ x 11” piece of cardstock in half will give you a basic card size and then you can work your way down from there to calculate a small 1/8 “ mat and the size of your stitching base. You can adjust the sizes if you would like a larger ¼ “ spacing for your mat.

Single Mat Card                                                          Double Mat Card

5 ½ x 4 ¼ “  card                                                          5 ½ x 4 ¼ “  card

5 ¼ x 4 “     mat                                                            5 ¼ x 4 “      mat 1

5 x 3 ¾ “     stitching base                                            5 x 3 ¾ “      mat 2

                                                                                    4 ¾ x 3 ½ “  stitching base

Miniature Art

If you like working small, you might want to consider Artist Trading Cards.  (this would also lead into the Guild Inspiration Day activity)  The size requirement for an Artist Trading Card or ATC is 2.5” x 3.5”, the size of most common trading cards like Hockey, Baseball and Pokemon, etc.

 

Books – for Reference

A Look at Books video of books used for this class (listed below)

 

Mixed Media Master Class with Sherrill Kahn  (50+ Surface Design Techniques for Fabric and Paper)

Cut, Shape, Stitch: Working Creatively with Cutting Machines by Maggie Grey, Samantha Packer and Paula Watkins

Long Diaries, Tall Tales: Making Narrative Textiles by Maggie Grey

Paper, Metal, Stitch by Maggie Grey and Jane Wild

Surface Treatment Workshop: Explore 45 Mixed Media Techniques by Darlene Olivia McElroy and Sandra Duran Wilson

Stitched Textiles: Seascapes by Amanda Hislop

Textures from Nature in Textile Art by Marian Jazmik

Stitch, Cloth, Paper and Paint by Angie Hughes

Storytelling with Collage by Roxanne Evans Stout

Paper Quilting: Creative Designs using Paper and Thread  by Bridget Hoff

 

Designing a Stitch Template Using Grid Paper – video demo

Dot Grid Paper Maker

 

Artist Links

Donna Menses Cunha   instagram

Emily Barletta

Emily Barletta Instagram

Karen Ruane

Sevda Bad

Shawn Kardinal Instagram

Shawn Kardinal

Petra Heidrich

Izzy and Gina -- In Stitches podcast series

Kirsty Whitlock

Marine Pinsard

Anita Bonde Ericksen

Peggy Dembicer

Julia – Oh these lines

Sophie Reid     littlepaperwarriors

Jiggery Pokery

Borka Design

Alexandra Fraraccio

Rhian Swierat

Britt Fabello

Karen Barbe

Karin Lundstrom   

Cataline Escallon

Neha Sachan Instagram  

Saturday, September 6, 2025

Paper, Paint, Stitch and More ...

 Welcome 

I just want to take a moment to welcome you to the CEG Zoom class, Paper, Paint, Stitch and More …

We will be meeting at 7pm on September 25, October 9, 23, November 13, 27, and December 11.  I will usually open the Zoom class a little early to get set up.  We have a recurring link so it will be the same one for each class.  I will send out the invitation/reminder for the class on the Monday before the class.  I usually send any handouts for the class on the day of the class, and I will post them on my blog so that you will have continued access during and after the class. 

As the name indicates, we will be exploring paper as a vehicle or medium for a variety of techniques and be inspired by a multitude of paper artists from around the world to stitch into this very versatile substrate in any number of amazing and creative ways.

In preparation, start gathering your supplies.

  • Paper – different thicknesses and types (whatever you have on hand)

o   As I’ve said in the past, Sarnia has great $ stores – our Dollarama sells pads of 20 sheet 140 lb. (300 gsm) watercolour paper for $3.25  --- that is very sturdy paper and will hold up to a lot of abuse and thread/fibre tension.  You can add paint, watercolour and layers to it.  I use this for my bases a lot.

o   Tissue paper

o   Printer paper


  • Paint – water colour and acrylic.  You don’t have to try both, but you should try at least one.  Ink is also an option if you have it.   You want to put colour on the paper in some form.
  • Threads and fibres.  I use a lot of #10 and #20 crochet cottons and #12 perle cotton because I like the size of the threads.  They can be a bit of pain to thread into a needle though.
  • Needles – ideally you want needles that don’t have a rounded eye.  You don’t want the eye of the needle to make the hole in your paper larger than it needs to be.  You are looking for a long eye rather than a round one (if that makes sense)
  • Awl or paper piercer – these can be as simple as a push pin or can be purchased from craft stores.  Sometimes a large upholstery needle will be just the right size and quite a useful piercing tool.  My local $store now carries paper piercing tools.
  • Piercing Mat – it can be a piece of foam, an old mouse pad, a piece of felt, wool press pad, cardboard, newspapers, etc.  You need something with a bit of give to put under your paper so that you can pierce through the paper without damaging your desk or tabletop.
  • Grid paper – graph paper or dot grid paper can be very useful and saves you from needing to use a ruler to get a regular measurement (great for planning designs) If you have the Alabama Chanin (Geometry of Hand-sewing Book) there are wonderful hole stitch templates in the back)
  • Ruler
  • Adhesive – glue stick, double sided tape (whatever works for you)
  • Cutting tools – scissors, exacto knife and cutting mat
  • Heating tools (optional) – soldering iron or incense sticks – for burning holes and edges of paper

 

Kit:  I will be sending out your kit with some specialty papers for experimentation and ephemera for you to play with. The dark zip lock envelope in the kit contains cyanotype paper (do not open until you are ready to use the paperIt should not be exposed to daylight)
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